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Report from my first NY Fashion Week show post-tragedy.

Last night was the Marc Jacobs show, which had a special symbolism for many - his huge show and afterparty on the pier on September 10 (always has the Monday 9 PM slot at Fashion Week) was this huge blowout that ended only hours before IT happened, and I do know several people who did not make it to work at WTC that Tuesday because they had been bingeing or otherwise carousing at that party.

But anyway, on to the show last night, which was at The Armory, which most of us had seen in quite another incarnation during September. It was mobbed of course, but two huge signs hung at the entrance "Photo Identification Is Required For Admission." This was new, and even though scrutiny of our invites revealed a tiny warning to that effect at the bottom, we were already there, quite ID-less as usual AND sporting the following-

I was wearing a large-hole fishnet face veil cut like a chic hockey mask with my equestrian-ish fetishy suit jacket and long tiered skirt.

Johnny, having injured his foot last weekend, had pulled one of my walking sticks on the way out the door. It was one of the concealed-sword variety - I hadn't been watching.

I was still skeptical of how the ID thing was going to translate amongst all the bimbo boys and drama queens of The Fashion Pack, so we decided to give it a shot. We just had to show invites to get up the steps, and then were told "go to the left and show your ID please". Our hearts sank. Then at that moment one of Marc's show production people came forward "Chi Chi, Johnny, THIS WAY" shepherding us towards the right. That door only required search of my miniscule handbag and showing again of invites. We were in - and my hunch had been correct. The terrorists had not managed to destroy a great NY tradition - the overlooking of rules for the overdressed!

The show started an hour late, during which several people in the F( =Friends) section commented that the incredibly packed room had a very low-key energy. No wonder, with the room itself having so recently witnessed so much sadness - rooms hold on to these things long after. There was much talk of the last show, and the extraordinary day that followed. Veteran photog Patrick McMullan told me that after Marc's show last time he had thought to himself "I wish something would happen to stop Fashion Week. I just can't face it this season" and then had been wracked by guilt for weeks, as if he had caused it.

The show began with the unmistakeable opening bars of "Teen Spirit" which had been an incredible motif for Marc years back with the "grunge" collection. But there was nothing period about this show, or certainly not THAT period. I could describe it best as the taking of miltary jackets (from Edwardian to French Revolution) rather distressed and combined with layers from Les Miz gauze to dull pewter sequins. I haven't loved a show of Marc's this much in many years. In fact we liked it SO much that we became afraid for Marc - though he has done some great collections in the last decade the last thing we had been really mad about in the same way was the collection that got him fired from Perry Ellis.
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well, it was no marc jacobs show, BUT...
i saw sally jesse once at a fried fish & clam shack in p-town.
she was so h.a.g. positive that we didn't even recognize her. i thought that all the hoopla around her was 'cuz she was an old waitress from the joint and we happened in on her retirement party. (no red glasses, sweetie.)
you may have been sitting right next to her. trust.
Hey Gobs, I wore your "Glamour Goblins" T-shirt to an A-list fashion party, sweetie darling, hoping to have it featured like you requested. I was sitting next to Monica Lawinski, no photos were taken but maybe it will end up in Page Six or something. Alas no Hilton sisters though! But I bet you next year the Dolce & Gabanna show will be featuring rhinestone encrusted "Glamour Goblin" T-shirts
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Daddy, what a memory! I had totally forgotten about the KM/KO connection. And you are right, she did look great as she was kicking open the bathroom door last night to share the loo with one of our barbacks.
And Glammy, I am sooo worried about the Hilton Sisters these days-- haven't seen hide nor hair. Perhaps they are visiting Dick Cheney?
From: "Noah"
Subject: Paris's Bday, Reebok MAGIC Event, Valentines Day, Presidents Day at Tao, Limelight
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2002 17:20:12 -0800

If your looking for something to do or tell your friends about this weekend, check out the following events Jason and I are hosting for Presidents Day Weekend.

New York: Thursday Feb 14th: "Valentines Day" at Suite 16, 127 8th Ave at 16th St. Expect: Fashion week party, lot's of pretty people in red.

Friday Feb 15th: "The Last Dance" at LIMELIGHT, Sixth Avenue between 20th/21st St., 10pm. Expect: 2,000 people!

Sunday Feb 17th: "Presidential Dinner" at TAO, 42 E. 58th St. at Madison, 10pm. Expect: Great crowd, dinner and dancing.

Las Vegas:

Saturday Feb 16th: "Paris Hilton's 21st Birthday Bash" at LIGHT in the BELLAGIO HOTEL. 10pm. Expect: Vegas, what do you think.

Wednesday Feb 20th: "Reebok/NBA Magic Trade Show Event" at LIGHT in the BELLAGIO HOTEL. 7:30-10:30 pm.

All of the events will require you to be on the guest list so if you would like to attend please email me back ASAP or call me office at 212-420-9420 by 6pm Friday Feb 15th. Have a safe and fun holiday weekend and I look forward to seeing you.

Noah Tepperberg
For two hours last night, a well-aimed jet would have wiped fashion out well into the 2020s. In attendance on the roof of 60 Thompson Street, for Bloomingdale's Big Daddy Cal Ruttenstein's CFDA Lifetime Achievement award dinner-

First Brood Vampire and divinity KARL LAGERFELD, Marc Jacobs, Stephen Sprouse, Anna Wintour, Anna Sui, Ralph Lauren, Diane Von Furstenberg, Lauren Hutton, Helmut Lang, Susie Menkes, new designer Zack something who Alba brought to Jackie when he was 12, dysfunctional legend Candy Pratts Price (sp?), Abysinnian bloody Vogue Sweetie.
I'm sure you've all seen Stephen Sprouse's new Red White and Blue line at Target stores nationwide and online...

Some of it is quite cute but the website selections pale in comparison to what is actually in the stores (apparently, as per my "source"...let's just call her "Lulu"), anyway I got the women's shirt online and it's very cute, and the material is good quality. Needless to say these clothes are well on their way into becoming somewhat of a collectors item, because of Sprouse's erratic carrer as a fashion designer.
HEY ALL LULU HERE!!!!! Love the Target Sprouse soooo much and will be pop'n up on my web site soon. Thanks to MOTHER for everything. Time is coming faster than ever and am leaving NYC on June 26. Dont think I can put up any more EBAY stuff til we leave but will keep u all posted. Will miss all my extended family. but thank god for email and the internet.
So great to "see" you both here!

Lulu, thanks for the amazing DCI donation - we are honored!!!

Though we'll miss you terribly, I think what you are doing rocks! PLEASE keep us posted here in JACKIE LEGEND or ELSEWHERE if you can find the time.

Julian, you're not leaving too are you? The Westwood store would have to close if you did!
I'm out here in PA (near New Hope) with Sammy and Miss Bond . and we have attacked the local Target store, I got the Sprouce beach towels, beachballs and my favorite .... the boogie board....also wiped out were the skirts, dress, hats, bikini, etc. by Mr and Mrs Bond. I also indulged in a Stark folding chair sweetie......Target didn't know what hit them.
Partially out of solidarity with my possibly soon-to-be-cremated Hindu sisters and partially out of not-wanting-to-wear-fashion-to-the-fashion-event-sweetie, I've re-discovered my bright red and gold wedding sari that KB tricked out for the "Jackie Goes To India" bash some years back and have been featuring it nonstop for last few nights out, with red fishnet top under.

It is a total blast wearing this, and gets you dressed so quickly and glamorously that you really see why all those Spiritualists became so chic all those years ago. Most fun though is the guaranteed homage from some of our favorite cabbies (See "SEx With Taxi Drivers" in QMTV if you'd like to catch up.) I don't know what it is exactly about the sight of a Big Blonde so attired, but you'd think I was walking around nekkid theway some of the Pakistani, Indian and Bengladeshi (sp?) drivers get so worked up.

I've had so many great conversations, which always begin with something like -

"That is great dress, you are wearing a sari."
(No, really, I didn't know that was the name of it...)

My favorite, on the way to Kal R.'s dinner Sunday night, was the driver who suggested -

"You should go to MY country, the saris are so beautiful there, and so much cheaper than 27th St."

When I asked where, he told me "Kashmir."

Well, I said diplomatically, (not wanted to remind him of just the wee bit of tension looming there at the moment) I've heard this may be not such a great time to go there.

"What do you mean? It's a great time to go," he shot back, insisting that NOTHING might interrupt a blonde sari-shopper in Kashmir at the moment. "You bring two, three hundred dollars and you leave with many beautiful saris."

I loved his total focus, his obliviousness, blind hope, or whatever you might call it, considering what the headlines are like every day, considering the million soldiers currently massed there and of course the rather persistent story about all those pesky nukes en pointe in his hometown. "Sounds great!" I chirped cheerfully, and stepped off into the night.
You would LIVE for the Indian market area in Bangkok. It's so mysterious! There's a huge block of gorgeous shops that you can walk around, but it's the gritty market maze within the block that's so fascinating. You walk around, getting lost, weaving be tween the indoor and outdoor, accepting the uncomfortable heat, stumbling upon all sorts of hidden treasures. And, as always, everything's crazy cheap! I guess it's the closest we can get to India for the time being.

I feel terrible about what's happen ing in India and Pakistan! Both countries have seen such hard times, the last thing they need is this war! While I've never been there I have a deep appeciation for their expressiveness in art, film, and design,
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Legendary British photographer Nick Knight's website

has a downloadable shirt pattern courtesy of art-house designer Yohji Yamamoto. The shirt itself is pictured in the "images" section of the site (handy for those less experienced with clothes making, me included, because it gives you clues as to how to constuct it) added incentive, once done making the shirt you can send them a picture of yourself with your own creation! Who says you need to deplete your bank account for a Yohji outfit?!
I would suggest making it in some fabric other than black as the details don't really show (as per one of the photographs already submitted)...I think t-shirt material would work well for this one.
In the supermarket today when I complimented my neighbor on her silly Chanel earmuffs she took them off and gave them to me, saying in that
completely AbFab way that only fashion lifers have:

"I got them at the Chanel sample sale because I had to buy something and they told me they were the only pair ever made. Then last night at
Sean Jean I saw Kelly Osbourne wearing a pair! If you like them, take them pleeease!"
PETA has had no luck in its efforts to convince Anna Wintour to keep fur out of Vogue magazine by showing her hideous images of animals struggling in traps. So we're hoping to get her attention with a hideous image of ... herself.

Just in time for Wintour's "Lifetime Achievement" Award at the Council of Fashion Designers of America's Fashion Awards on June 2, PETA is launching a new ad campaign featuring the most unflattering picture of the Vogue editor we could find, with the slogan, "Fur Is Worn by Beautiful Animals and Ugly People."

NY Mag has cute item this week:
New York Magazine


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September 15, 2003
Tell Us, Doctor, What Is It About Models?
New York Times

In 1953, Dr. Edmund Bergler, a New York psychoanalyst trained at the Freud Clinic in Vienna, focused his analytic intelligence on understanding that most sadly neglected field of human pursuits: fashion. The result was a book, "Fashion and the Unconscious," a matchless addition to the literature both of homophobia and of claptrap.

Dr. Bergler was not the first to suggest that the will to hoax womankind with fashion originates in the unconscious minds of maternally fixated, orally regressed homosexuals. He wasn't even the first to see a link between "unconscious repetition compulsion" and a tendency to writer's cramp. (Freud got there first.) But Dr. Bergler did manage to commit to the page analytic canards whose qualities of unbridled gaga can be appreciated for their humorous qualities even a half-century on.

Man, wrote Dr. Bergler, meaning heterosexual man, "for whom the neckline plunges, for whom the skirts are shortened and swirled, who whistles (sometimes in thought) after every good-looking girl is not, as he believes, looking after Lady Godiva." What said man is frantically seeking, Dr. Bergler asserted, "is inner reassurance that he is the he-man."

If there is one time of the year when a reporter's inner he-man is put to the test it is Fashion Week. Hiking from showroom to backstage areas to the front row, one dutifully notes the latest trend for dye-treated burlap, Liza Minelli eyelashes and ultrasuede pleats, while secretly indulging that most helplessly he-man of inner vices, the obsession with models. "It's a real disease," said Simon Doonan, the creative director of Barney's, on Saturday morning, as he awaited the start of the As Four show at the Josephine tent in Bryant Park.

"Johnny and I were just discussing it," said Mr. Doonan, referring to his partner, the designer Jonathan Adler. Specifically they were discoursing on Karolina Kurkova's exceptional proportion of leg to torso; about Linda Evangelista's ability to draw a crowd, even in retirement and when wearing a do-rag and jeans; about how the wide-set eyes and yearling dimensions of the Italian model Maria Carla Boscone are so unearthly compelling and strange that Mr. Doonan has been unable to resist casting her for successive Barney's campaigns.

"It's about beauty, I guess," Mr. Doonan noted mildly, hesitant to lay claim to his inner he-man. "I also like to look at the birds in the trees," he said, and the tacit comparison between birders and model obsessives is apt. The feeling a birder gets from glimpsing a yellow-bellied sapsucker is probably no different from the thrill a model obsessive gets glimpsing Elise Crombez, the Belgian catwalk star du jour.

Models, said Pat McGrath, the influential makeup artist, as she applied gold sequins to the feline Ethiopian beauty Liya Kebede at the Baby Phat show last evening, "are a strange species of their own." They compel our eye with their giraffe-like limbs, their miniature heads, their fragile ankles and the facial features that, however apparently varied, still conform to ideals of beauty that scholars say have not changed much at all through history. Is it the marketplace or something immutable in human nature that makes the snarling butch loveliness of the Dominican model Omahyra Mota more like the beauty of Mey Bun, the shaven-headed 20-year-old Cambodian model from Brooklyn, than not?

"They're best when they're silent," said Mr. Doonan, and it is true that as naturally as model beauty attracts attention, it is their blankness and silence that seduce the mind. "Kate Moss kept her trap shut and it really helped her career," Mr. Doonan continued. Smart models always do.

"People are addicted to models because they are addicted to fantasy," said Ms. McGrath, whose own addiction began when she was a girl in Northampton, England. "Looking at these women in magazines, you were drawn into another world of women you would never meet, whose apartments you would never enter. Their beauty hijacked you into their world." It is a world populated by beings whose image is so sublimely inscrutable that, as the 62-year-old Henrik Ibsen once wrote about his 18-year-old crush, Emilie Bardach, one is free to "adorn it poetically."

Backstage at the Baby Phat show yesterday, the scene was typically chaotic, noisy, fogged with hair spray and cigarette smoke. The small work areas were jammed tight with television camera crews, dressers, hairdressers, makeup artists, manicurists, personal assistants, publicists, friends, caterers, children, dogs and fantastically beautiful women wearing nothing but underpants. Who knows what Dr. Bergler might have made of this post-Freudian scene from he-man heaven? And, honestly, who cares?

Copyright 2003 The New York Times Company
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Here are the next celebrity names.

Chi Chi, Glammy, Kitty Boots & Carson (from Queer-Eye) and I went to The Marc Jacobs show & after party last night. The show was fun as always. Rob and I looking at the celebrities. (Rob telling me who everyone was) For some reason we ALWAYS sit directly across from Sally Jessie Rafael. I swear every show! She has had some VERY funky surge and her mouth is all funny now. Rob says she looks like she's constantly looking for a mint. After the show Kitty went home but Rob, Chi, Carson and I went to the after party at The new Maritime Hotel. It was such a nightmare! So crowded. Very scary with no easy way out. It was every friend of a friend of a friend of some third rate hairdresser/stylist in New York. It was like Beige multiplied and exploded inside a too small closet. We finally found our way out where we met Howard the manager of the Hotel. We told him how scary it was inside but he just laughed. He said, "Johnny, I can't believe you of all people didn't know better!" Anyway, outside the in the street these guys were busy hanging these posters about who will be the next blonde (or something like that). Well after Debbie, Chi Chi and Sally Jessie Rafael who could possibly live up to that?
He is the next big blonde.
He's very nice, very smart and really alot of fun. He's taking his new-found fame with a grain of salt. Enjoying it but not taking it too seriously. Signing autographs, taking pictures with fans, smiling when people say stupid things like, "Oh my God, you're Carson from that TV show. My roomate loves you. She watches your show all the time. I've never seen it."
He's really nice.
In the car ride over to The Maritime Hotel we were howling at Kitty's expense. Now that Carson and Kitty are working together we had to compare "Kitty-isms". Kitty Boots is a true genius as most of you know but even though she was born in England she has this very unique way of mangling the English Language.
Kitty: "Chi, someone named Megadeath Moore called you. Here is her number."
Chi Chi: Megadeath Moore? "Oh, Meredith Monk. Thanks Kit."

or my favorite...
Kitty: "Chi, someone named Cam-ill-a Piggly called you. Here is her number."
Chi Chi: Cam-ill-a Piggly? "Oh, Camille Paglia. Thanks Kit."

our new favorite:
Kitty: "Carson do you have everything ready for the opera show you are going to?"
Carson: "The Opera? I'm not going to the opera... Oh, The Oprah Show in Chicago. Yes I'm ready Kit thanks."

God save the Queen and God bless Kitty Boots!

Celebrity Name: Sally Jessie Rafael


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When even little old WonderBar is innundated with packs of jaw-grinding, Euro-Japanese-Russian fashionistas, cramming themselves into the tiny bathrooms three to four at a time, and led by a monsterous Liz Hurley look-alike, you know Fashion Week has become bigger than any of us, sweetie. And maybe it was the real Liz. What do I know anyway?

[This message was edited by hatches on 09-16-03 at 05:40 PM.]
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-I saw part of the Heatherette show on NY metro looked pretty good, not as wild as usual maybe i missed some stuff, maybe I'm expecting god knows what from them. Anyone go to the show?? party??
-aint it great that ny metro is covering the shows this year again, a whole lot more than style network does.
-Not that I don't like the song but was there any designer that didnt play Beyonce knowles song. (crazy in love)
-Am I the only one who doesn't give a shit about Sally Jesse Wink
-Anna Sui Rocks!!!!!

[This message was edited by jonomar on 09-19-03 at 02:01 AM.]
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All followers of the church of Vreeland, or latter-day saint Antonio...

RUN to the new Michael Gallagher Gallery at 4th Avenue and 12th Street on the corner. Filled with original fashion illustrations including Charles James and Antonio, rare books, fashion photos and Weegee and EVERY back issue of Flaunt, Vogue etc.

And, the most learned Walter Cessna (of STOP magazine fame) is the manager.
(and you didn't hear it from me sweeties)
Yesterday I was at the _ _ _ _ _ showroom. Getting music together for the Fall '05 show. And guess whom was there?
Miss boob malfunction herself, Janet Jackson.
She was getting a dress for the Grammys.

"I know what Janet's wearing
Na Na-aa Na"

But forget about that...
Know what the ring tone on her cell is?
"Don't stop till you get enough"

So if you see Joan & melissa...


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I saw the pictures in the paper here. Her stuff looks fun and young. I was more fascinated by the story about 14 yr old JoJo the singer..She sure sounds like a pip. And as for Janet ( Miss Jackson if you're nasty) I have always loved her. Maybe the dwarf thing is a leftover from her brother..who knows..but we all know that good things cum in small packages..Just ask Hatches...Mike the meatpacking man...remember?
Wow, have I ever been out of the loop. Here's an alleged trend that I have never - ever - heard of before, and what's more, I can't say that I've even noticed many (any?) of these gals around town. As a recovering goth, I'm appalled at my own ignorance. Where ARE they hiding in NYC?

March 13, 2005
Gothic Lolitas: Demure vs. Dominatrix
New York Times

IT did not take long for Twinkle Lam to realize that she had a problem on her hands.

For the past 10 months the 23-year-old Ms. Lam has moderated an online discussion group about Gothic and Lolita fashion, a style of dressing imported from Japan featuring Victorian-era calf-length skirts, bloomers, aprons, lace bows and ruffled petticoats that has attracted a following among high-school and college-age girls in the United States.

For the most part, discussion on the Web log (, a forum of about 2,500 ardent adherents to Gothic and Lolita fashion that Ms. Lam manages from her home in Dallas, revolves around questions like where to buy chunky high-heeled Mary Jane pumps or how to fashion Bo Peep collars. But over the winter, the usually polite exchanges gave way to angry, often profane declamations.

At issue was Gwen Stefani's Alice in Wonderland costume in her "What You Waiting For" video. Alice, with her prim white collar, poofy sleeves and bell-shaped skirts, is an informal muse for many G.L.'s, as they call themselves, and the sense was that Ms. Stefani had bastardized the look by exposing blue ruffled panties and laced-up high heels, making the look more dominatrix than demure.

"That outfit looks nothing like Lolita," read one of the more restrained posts. "It's not even original, it looks like what Britney wore when she kissed Madonna."

Although petticoats and parasols are hardly mall-wear, Ms. Lam said the video was a sign that the Gothic and Lolita aesthetic, once fetishized by a few, might be moving out into the mainstream, where it could be co-opted and corrupted by the many. Just in the last six months, Ms. Lam said, Gothic and Lolita blog sites have been infiltrated by men seeking pictures of girls in sexed-up Gothic and Lolita fare "That never happened until recently," Ms. Lam said. "It's coming more into the spotlight, and it's only going to become more and more popular."

Not that Ms. Stefani was the first celebrity to call attention to Gothic and Lolita fashion; Amy Lee, the lead singer of Evanescence, wears black lace dresses favored by some G.L.'s, and last year Courtney Love was co-writer of a Japanese-style comic book about Princess Ai, a character based loosely on Ms. Love who dresses in Gothic and Lolita style. Neither Ms. Lee nor Ms. Love, though, has drawn the ire Ms. Stefani did. She has incorporated the style into her act, traveling with a troupe called the Harajuku girls, named after a trendy neighborhood in Tokyo where many girls who wear the style gather on weekends.

Gothic and Lolita got its start in the early to mid-1990's among Japanese schoolgirls inspired by the band Malice Mizer and in particular by Mana, the band's effeminate guitarist, who wore black and white ruffled dresses, elaborate bows, false eyelashes and heavy white makeup.

The look caught on as part of Japan's "cosplay," or costume play, culture, in which young people dress up like iconic pop figures, many of them popular cartoon characters. Soon teenage girls in Tokyo were stitching recreations of Mana's costumes by hand. Local designers followed, and ultimately Mana created his own line, Moi-même-Moitié, which is sold in Japanese department stores.

In 2000 publishers of the Japanese fashion magazine Kera started publishing the Gothic & Lolita Bible, which has grown to a circulation of 80,000. Part catalog, part fashion magazine, it has patterns for making costumes as well as recipes for bite-size chocolate cakes with powdered sugar crosses that Gothic Lolitas (or Goth-Lolis, as they are known in Japan) can serve at tea parties.

As the look spread, it inspired different interpretations, so that in addition to the traditional Gothic and Lolita look, which is heavy on the Goth with black or white dresses, clunky black shoes, and dark makeup, there is also Sweet Lolita, bursting with ruffles and pastels; Elegant Gothic Lolita, a corseted Victorian style; and Schoolgirl Lolita, favoring pleated skirts and knee socks.

Jodi Bryson, a consulting development editor for Tokyopop, a leading provider of Japanese style comic books in the United States, who has studied the trend, said that she first started noticing an interest in Gothic and Lolita in the United States about three years ago as Americans either visited Tokyo or learned about Gothic and Lolita online. "It was then we started seeing girls dress up, from teenagers to college-age and beyond," she said. "The attraction was twofold: there was the creative side, making costumes, and the escape of role-playing. It was a killer way for girls to express themselves."

In addition to spending hundreds if not thousands of dollars on Gothic and Lolita fashion, American followers of the trend join online communities, scour Japanese bookstores and eBay for issues of the Gothic & Lolita Bible (they can buy it for anywhere from $20 in a bookstore to as much as $50 online), and meet for tea parties at which they dress up and eat cake. Many, she said, also go to anime conventions, where people celebrate all things Japanese.

Michelle Nguyen, 22, lived in Japan for five months in 2003 and became a regular reader of the Gothic & Lolita Bible there. Now a senior at Penn State University studying English, advertising and Japanese, she buys Japanese-made skirts and dresses on eBay and has taken up sewing so she can make her own outfits. She has four parasols, various flouncy pastel skirts, and plenty of floppy lace bows. She and friends organize Gothic and Lolita outings for which they dress up and have tea or go to movies like Lemony Snicket's "Series of Unfortunate Events," in which the costumes evoke the Gothic and Lolita style.

She said she sometimes gets stares from students on campus. "I used to wear big frilly skirts out to classes, but it's hard to do," she said. "You have to function sitting at a desk and, in a ruffled skirt, you just can't do that."

Ms. Lam, who attends college and works for an oil and gas company in Dallas, has more than 10 full Gothic and Lolita outfits, on which she has spent thousands of dollars. She said she wouldn't even think of wearing one to work. "Half would have a heart attack, and I don't know about the other half," she said of her co-workers. "My mom, when she first saw me dressed up, said, 'Why didn't we just save your baby clothes?' "

As for her boyfriend, she said: "He really likes to see me in the sweet stuff, all white. I'm like, can't I wear something more practical?"

Ms. Lam predicts that the hullabaloo over Ms. Stefani will subside, although it has changed the nature of the conversation among Gothic and Lolita fans forever. A hopeful sign, she said, is that some fans are warming to the idea that the trend is not solely theirs anymore.

"We should all be flattered that the style is reaching mainstream," read one recent post online. "Fashion is a free right."

Also, Ms. Lam pointed out, the more mainstream the look becomes, the more available the clothes will be, and more affordable, too.
As far as I knew, this phenomeon in dressing was pretty well restricted to the Japanese. I am a big fan of Malice Mizer... their fan-base is famous for the overdressing...

This is a better link

They stopped recording in 1990 but the legend lives on. One of their many lead singers, GACKT, has a gorgeous voice and might still have a solo career.

F-Major tried very hard to get the more severe Gothic/18th century clothes at one point, but the comapny, run I think by Mana, would not export them!

I haven't seen any girls around town doing the pure Lolita either, but then I don't go to all the Goth clubs religiously. Have seen ALOT of the Lolita/Dominatrixes though! It is almost a standard look for some Dommes, esp. the 20-somethings.
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Ask Maki about the Goth Bible, her sister is involved with a similar publication.

La Madison, you are a born Gothic L prospect.

Only about a third of the attendees at any Goth club here are costumed and only the hard core regulars really do a tough look. Among that there is a fair portion of GL's but seldom anyone really approaching the all out Harajuku style. It appears to me to actually be a kind of 'medium' -think like an art medium, paint, photography, etc.- where androgyny can be indulged in to the max for guys and where an alternative form of extreme femininity gets played for girls who for any number of reasons abhor the mainstream off the rack 'fashions' pounded in to the average consumer. It certainly plays to the intensified repression of the current time with its mixture of heavily connoted sin and innocence. But I don't see it catching on as a real mainstream hit aside from maybe a few extremely watered down fashion details and maybe accessories. What would it say about the level of schizoidness in our culture now if the two main veins were rap and Gothic Lolita?
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Gosh Chi Chi...who has egg on his face now? I'm even more out of the loop than imagined. If this has been percolating for so long, I wonder why we haven't seen more popping up here. I wandered into Batcave a few weeks ago and it was empty. The people who did show were were totally lame. Talk about a long death. I hear there's a new party on Sundays that was not meant to be a goth night, but that's what it's become...supposed to be really good. Trying to remember where...
Someone emailed this to me, so Not sure what rag its from. Interesting, no?


Mao PR Sues Heatherette
By Renata Espinosa
April 06, 2005 @ 11:09 PM - New York

As everyone in fashion knows, sometimes young designers bite the hand that feeds them. Last month, Heatherette unceremoniously decided to cut ties with Mao Public Relations, their publicity firm since the label's inception in 2001. In a meeting with Heatherette company president Elissa Bromer, Mao PR was told "their services were no longer needed," said Mauricio Padilha, president of Mao PR.

"We created Mao to help young designers," said Padilha of their New York-based PR firm, well known in the fashion community for their support and representation of emerging fashion designers like Richie Rich and Traver Rains, the design team behind Heatherette.

That a young designer, or design duo in this case, would cut ties with their publicist is not controversial in and of itself, though said Padilha, Richie Rich had always told Mao that he would never leave them.

Rather, the controversy lies in the fact that after four and a half years of working for Heatherette, producing eight runway shows and creating enormous buzz around the label in the process, Heatherette is refusing to pay Mao PR back for their services, now that they seemingly have the means. Heatherette broke ties with Mao soon after the company was purchased for $6 million by the Weisfeld Group, owned by Norman and Bruce Weisfeld. The Weisfeld Group also owns clothing lines Coogi and Fubu.

"We had a contract with Heatherette from day one to do their PR for a fee - when they first started being late with their payments we made an agreement that as soon as they got their funding that they would pay us in full," said Padilha. "The Weisfeld/Heatherette deal has been in the works for a very long time," he added. "We continued doing the press because we were promised we would be paid in full....We invoiced them every step of the way and everytime we would speak to Richie he kept telling us we would be getting paid as soon as the deal went through."

Continued Padilha, "Clients come and go - but for somebody to have been helped all along and are up with a $6 million contract and don't want to pay us a penny?"

Now, Mao PR is suing Heatherette, Traver Rains, Richie Rich and the Weisfeld Group for $250,000 as well as defamation of character related to statements made to the press by Heatherette's new in-house publicist Aimee Phillips, who is also named in the suit. In the lawsuit, Mao PR makes the claim that the Weisfeld Group bought Heatherette based on press - not based on revenue, since there wasn't much to speak of - press that Mao PR helped them get.

Mao PR and Mauricio Padilha vs. Heatherette

According to the lawsuit filed by Mao PR and Mauricio Padilha, "The defendant Aimee Phillips made willfully false statements concerning [Mao PR and Padilha] which appeared in the New York Observer dated March 30, 2005."

Phillips told the Observer, "'You might say the great story is that important editors were standing out in the freezing cold during Fashion Week because Mao doesn't know how to put on a show. We didn't make a formal announcement because we didn't want any bad blood here. But I knew Mauricio was gonna be a brat about this.'"

Phillips was responding to a statement Padilha made when asked by the Observer about the recent parting of ways between Mao and Heatherette and whether there was a story behind it. Padilha told the Observer, "Yes, but for the time being, I have no comment."

Now Padilha wants to clarify certain points.

"Aimee said, ˜Editors were left out in the cold,' but no one was freezing that night," said Padilha, who has produced 158 fashion shows, of the February 4th show which was scheduled to start at 9 p.m.

According to Padilha, at 9:35 p.m. they closed the inner doors of the venue and only latecomers who arrived between 9:35 p.m. and 9:48 p.m. were the people left out. However, even these Johnny and Janey come latelies could still watch the show inside the lobby's heated tent on televisions broadcasting the runway show live, and help themselves to the tent's open bar to boot. "Nobody was left out in the cold," said Padilha.

Furthermore, added Padilha, "It wasn't Mao who closed the doors. It was 7th on 6th security." 7th on 6th, owned by IMG, is, of course, the entity that puts on the biannual New York fashion week in Bryant Park.

Drew Jacoby, the venue manager at 7th on 6th and present at the Heatherette show that night said that he told Mao they had to close the doors and start the show because they were over capacity. "When we get to a capacity crowd, we have to close the doors for safety reasons. It's a fire hazard," said Jacoby.

Heatherette's Fame Game

But before there was a lawsuit, there was four and a half years of dedication to Heatherette's success and brand building. As show producers for Heatherette, Mao PR secured the all models and celebrities, including Paris Hilton and Anna Nicole Smith, for the runway shows. In nearly every instance, the models and celebrities walked for free, except Naomi Campbell who was paid to walk for Heatherette in September 2004, said Padilha. It was because of Mao's negotiations and relationships with the agencies that they were able to arrange this.

Right after Anna Nicole Smith famously lost weight, Mao PR arranged for Smith to appear in Heatherette's Fall 2004 collection showing at Mao Space in February 2004. This sparked a media sensation and was a turning point in terms of name recognition for Heatherette.

Smith appeared on four magazine covers because of that show - In Touch, Us Weekly, Star and the National Enquirer. "It brought the Heatherette name out to middle America," said Padilha. Shots of Smith walking the Heatherette runway later appeared in the model's TrimSpa television commercials, something Padilha said he also negotiated.

"We worked with Roger and Mauricio on many occasions and she had a good experience each time," said Howard Stern, Anna Nicole Smith's lawyer, on working with Mao PR.

However, said Padilha, Smith never received a dress that Heatherette had promised her as compensation. To make up for this, Padilha secured an evening gown from designer David Rodriguez, whom Mao wasn't representing at the time, and also bought her a Philip Treacy clutch bag of Marilyn Monroe's lips as painted by Warhol at his own expense.

What Goes Around, Comes Around

Mao PR's story about being ditched when it came time to be paid back is not an isolated one. There are other reports surfacing about bills left unpaid from Heatherette's early days. "People have been coming out of the woodwork," said Padilha.

As with Mao PR, it was an act of good faith that kept various collaborators such as Marlon Gobel and Sweden Unlimited working with Heatherette.

Marlon Gobel, who did graphic design work for Heatherette in 2004, said he is owed nearly $10,000. He told Fashion Wire Daily that he had invoiced them and called them about payment, but hasn't been able to get in touch with anyone at Heatherette.

"Heatherette hired me right as they were getting ready for the Fubu [Weisfeld Group] sale to do all the graphics before the launch, the hang tags," said Gobel.

Because they were used to doing one-of-a-kind pieces and "they didn't know how to use a computer," said Gobel, they needed basic t-shirt designs, color separations, hang tags and look books designed so that they were ready for mass production.

Gobel worked with them for 5 months, nearly every day. He said they always told him that "we'll pay you, we'll pay you," as soon as the Weisfeld Group deal was signed. "That was always the Heatherette M.O., ˜We don't have any money now, but when we do, we'll help you,'" said Gobel.

"When the Fubu deal [Weisfeld Group] got signed, suddenly there was this lack of communication. I contacted them through email, nothing," he said. Then, Gobel saw that Paris Hilton was wearing a t-shirt he had designed on the invitation for their Fall 2005. At this point, Gobel still had not been paid for his work, which he had started back in March 2004.

"You don't want to pay me," said a frustrated Gobel of Heatherette, "but you want to use me for the stuff I made."

Throughout Gobel's time working with Heatherette, he said there was always the knowledge of the impending deal with the Weisfeld Group.

"Fubu [Weisfeld Group] had purchased Heatherette without actually giving them their check," said Gobel. "There were no worries that the deal wasn't going to go through."

When Gobel made attempts to contact Heatherette, he would "get the runaround from both Aimee [Phillips] and Richie," he said. "There's this strange standoffishness - especially for a company that has relied so much on friends."

Sweden Unlimited, a design firm owned by twins Leja and Alex Kress, produced a look book for Heatherette in 2001 and also told Fashion Wire Daily that they never received payment.

"Richie dropped by our place to drop off the pictures they needed made into a look book and that was the last we saw of them, except the occasional fashion party. We only did that job for a third of what we usually charge because Mauricio is so nice and the twins are such old friends of Roger and Mauricio," said Richard Agerbeek on behalf of Sweden Unlimited.

Continued Agerbeek, "It seemed every few months Mauricio would remind us to print out a new invoice to send to Heatherette. I think after the third or fourth year we just gave up. We wrote off our $500 as a loss...a $500 donation to the aging club kid fund."

When asked to comment on why no one from Heatherette would return calls or get in touch with the people trying to contact them about the bills, Aimee Phillips told Fashion Wire Daily that she had "no comment across the board at the moment," but would have someone call back who could answer the question.

Phillips called back almost immediately and said, "Officially we can't comment on any pending litigation. That's our company policy."

Michael Gallagher of Gallagher Art and Fashion Gallery knows Mauricio and Roger Padilha, Richie Rich and Traver Rains well.

"I love all of them," said Gallagher about Heatherette and Mao PR "It's a tragedy. They get a $6 million check and they forget everyone they know."

Gallagher helped Heatherette out as well. "I sent Richie to Moscow," he said, for Russian Fashion Week. "I don't think I ever got a thank you."

Gallagher also lent them turn-of-the-century books about the circus as reference material, which he said were never returned. The concept for Heatherette's Fall 2004 show and collection was based on the circus.

"Mauricio and Mao really did make Richie," said Gallagher. "I love Richie, I've been to a lot of parties with them. But they would be nowhere without Mao. Bottom line is, it was the carnival aspect that created the whole thing."

But not all designers step on the little people who've helped them up the ladder once they make it big.

"Look at Marc Jacobs, when he got bought by LVMH, who did he bring in? Stephen Sprouse," added Gallagher. "Certain people on a high level have a slavish loyalty and others forget who got them there."

For Padilha, it is that lack of loyalty that hurts him.

"We worked our asses off for them - we really feel like we're being slighted," sighed Padilha. The past is what got them where they are today, at the end of the day."

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